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How the SUEDE has shaped culture since 1968 – and why Paris 2026 marks a new starting point
22 janvier 2026
Hardly any sneaker has shaped everyday life, sport and style over the decades like the PUMA SUEDE. From street and court to skate parks and daily routines, it keeps adapting while staying true to itself. In 2026, PUMA brings this story back into focus – starting at Paris Fashion Week.
It pairs with jeans as easily as with tailored trousers, with a hoodie as naturally as with a sharply cut shirt – or a chic blouse. It works in motion, in everyday life, at rest. For almost six decades, the PUMA SUEDE has been part of pop and everyday culture. Few sneakers have endured this long without changing their basic form. Its lines are clear, it is instantly recognisable, both fashionable and timeless.
Its story begins in 1968. The shoe is launched under the name CRACK. The term comes from sports jargon of the time: then as now, “crack” stands for exceptional talent and outstanding performance. That is exactly what the shoe is meant to represent. Designed as a training and leisure shoe, it is functional and robust, made from suede leather and equipped with a sole developed specifically for it. It does not seek attention; it is built to perform.
Its story begins in 1968. The shoe is launched under the name CRACK. The term comes from sports jargon of the time: then as now, “crack” stands for exceptional talent and outstanding performance. That is exactly what the shoe is meant to represent. Designed as a training and leisure shoe, it is functional and robust, made from suede leather and equipped with a sole developed specifically for it. It does not seek attention; it is built to perform.
PUMA CRACK from 1969
A silent gesture for human rights
1968 is also a year in which the perception of sport begins to change. Sports arenas are no longer seen solely as places of competition, but increasingly as public spaces where social tensions become visible. In the United States, the struggle for civil rights intensifies. In April, Martin Luther King is assassinated in Memphis. Racism, discrimination and social inequality dominate public discourse. A historic move: Tommie Smith and John Carlos during the medal ceremony at the 1968 Olympic Games in Mexico City
On 16 October 1968, Tommie Smith wins the 200-metre race at the Olympic Games in Mexico City, setting a new world record of 19.83 seconds – the first human being to break the 20-second barrier. At the medal ceremony, he makes a historical move, protesting against racism and social inequality together with third-placed John Carlos. Both lower their heads and raise a clenched fist, wearing a black glove, as the US national anthem is played. Smith and Carlos appear without shoes, wearing only black socks.
Still present on the victory podium: the PUMA CRACK, placed beside them. Black, with the distinctive white Formstrip on the side, the shoe does not stand at the centre of the protest – but it becomes part of the image of that moment, an image that travels around the world.
The protest is judged a political act by the International Olympic Committee. Smith and Carlos are expelled from the Games. PUMA is also sanctioned, as the visibility of the shoes is deemed unauthorised advertising. Rather than distancing itself, PUMA continues to stand by Smith, who in turn remains connected to the brand for decades.
The protest is judged a political act by the International Olympic Committee. Smith and Carlos are expelled from the Games. PUMA is also sanctioned, as the visibility of the shoes is deemed unauthorised advertising. Rather than distancing itself, PUMA continues to stand by Smith, who in turn remains connected to the brand for decades.
From CRACK to CLYDE to SUEDE
In the early 1970s, the shoe moves further into the public spotlight. Walt “Clyde” Frazier, basketball star of the New York Knicks and a style icon of his era, signs with PUMA. Frazier wants low-cut shoes. And a different coloured pair for almost every game. For basketball players at the time, this approach is highly unusual and clearly ahead of its era. PUMA’s willingness to think beyond convention proves to be a perfect fit. In inspiration of the CRACK, the CLYDE is created. The shoe becomes more visible, more personal and more individual – on the court and beyond. Initially, the CLYDE remains limited to the US market. When Walt Frazier ended his career in 1980, the name CLYDE — tied to his persona — was faded out, while the shoe began to conquer the world. The silhouette became extremely popular worldwide and continued to be produced. Decades later, it was finally given a new name based on its defining material: SUEDE. The shape remained, as did its character.
In the 1980s, the SUEDE finds its place in the emerging hip-hop culture. In particular, breakdance groups – so-called B-boy crews – adopt the shoe. They are looking for footwear that allows freedom of movement, provides grip and withstands heavy stress. The SUEDE meets these demands. The training shoe becomes a street shoe. Skateboarding culture also embraces the SUEDE, interpreting it in its own way.
In the 1980s, the SUEDE finds its place in the emerging hip-hop culture. In particular, breakdance groups – so-called B-boy crews – adopt the shoe. They are looking for footwear that allows freedom of movement, provides grip and withstands heavy stress. The SUEDE meets these demands. The training shoe becomes a street shoe. Skateboarding culture also embraces the SUEDE, interpreting it in its own way.
Over the following decades, the SUEDE remains present. Materials are varied, colours expanded and collaborations created. In 2018, PUMA celebrates the 50th anniversary of the model. In 2020, a special tribute follows: a strictly limited edition in honour of Tommie Smith. Just 307 pairs are produced – his bib number at the 1968 Olympic Games.
A classic that does not stand still
This year, PUMA retells the story of the SUEDE as part of Paris Fashion Week. From 21 to 24 January, the SUEDE House opens at Galerie Joseph, 7 Rue Froissart, in the Marais district of Paris.Paris is no coincidence. Few cities embody the intersection of fashion, street culture, music and style as clearly. At the SUEDE House, the history of the SUEDE is told through archival material and selected perspectives from street, skate and basketball culture. The focus is on the evolution of the model – from its sporting origins to its presence in today’s urban context.
By relying on its iconic roots – and reimagining them through today’s lens – PUMA sets the SUEDE up for its next era. Paris is only the beginning. Stay tuned.
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